primavera in verona

Since this year abroad adventure began almost a year ago, not a single day has gone by when i've not felt like the luckiest bear in the world. This was especially the case last weekend when I was invited to Verona for a weekend with the Philippes. C'était vraiment un weekend merveilleux! Do you remember the last time we went to Verona back in October when I was whinging about missing trees and autumn leaves? Well i'm well and truly over that. Spring has sprung and Verona is quite frankly blooming.

Naked trees all lined up along the riverbank

This could possibly be my favourite photo ever. Meet the Philippes.

And because it wouldn't be a family outing without a traffic mirror reflection

On our last visit to Verona, Lois took us to this incredible little local cantina. Of the hand-written menu, mix-matched crockery, walls bursting with photos and posters variety. The food sublime, the prices extraordinarily cheap. By chance we stumbled across it again and piled ourselves into the clattering restaurant ready for a Veneto feast. It didn't disappoint!

How's that for a full fridge?

Find them here at La Taverna di Via Stella (closed monday evening & all wednesday)

Happy customers

This below is the old famous walk up a thousand steps, appreciate the view whilst gasping for air, stagger back down, pat yourself on the back with a drink and another view.

Once we were watered, rested and re-energised, it was time for some cultural stuff. You know, the walking around, building admiring, architecture appreciating, photo posing kind.

Some nice arches, columns and staircases...

L'Arena

But cultural stuff is thirsty business, anybody for a ginormous spritz?

Dinner was a much more sophisticated affair than lunch. Instead the walls were adorned with renaissance paintings, gold mirrors and brass lights, the menu bound and not a mix-matched item in sight. The food was also incredible, but we all agreed we'd preferred our little local taverna. 

But you'll find Ristorante Maffei at the end of Piazza delle Erbe or here

But anyplace you get given a biscotti selection as impressive as this one gets a big thumbs up from me.

Then we headed home for a good nights sleep before the next days trip to Lake Garda.

Now Verona is beautiful, but Lake Garda is breathtaking. I dare every single one of you not to fall in love. Either with the lake itself, or a handsome fisherman/fisherwoman like in a D.H. Lawrence novel. Dotted around the lake are little villages and towns, all completely different in shape, size and type.

Peschiera del Garda has a peaceful calmness about it. The town's not very big, you can see everything you need to see in a few hours, so the best thing to do is to install yourself in a restaurant by the lake for a few hours and take it all in. 

We found a restaurant quite literally on the lake, which bopped up and down whenever a boat zoomed past.

Bellissima!

I think we can all agree that the Philippes are the epitome of French chic. If I ever learn the secret I'll let you know! Although I'm starting to think it's a kind of chic that just can't be emulated, maybe the not-so-secret secret is simply being French.

Bellissime!

Once you've taken in all you can from you waterside seat, walk along the waterfront.

Mucky window reflection

I told you it was blooming...

Look at that blue blue blue water! In march! Are you falling a little bit in love?

We certainly did. Hopelessly and irrevocably in love. With a lake. It happens, apparently. So much so, that the tingling in our fingers and toes are pointing us right back in the Lago di Garda direction. We'll be back prestoooo!

Merci mille fois à la famille Philippe pour un weekend inoubliable, à la prochaine fois!  

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high altitude bar crawl

(Second instalment in The Dolomiti Appreciation Society series)

Spring skiing is something of a mixed bag. Head out too early and the snow tends to rattle your teeth out of your skull, too late and you're wading waist deep in sludge. Some wise owl once said to get the best of the snow you need to follow the sun and ski from east to west. Does that not just sound horrifically over-organised? If you're anything like the vast majority of the Dolomiti Appreciation Society, your spring ski will be a scenic route from bar to bar to bar to bar to floor then back to bar.

Are you ready? We're about to go on a Dolomiti bar crawl.

Primo bar: The Cow Bar

This is possibly my favourite bar in the Dolomites. It's nestled in the side of the mountain, hidden away from the world. If you're ever in the area, look for a 15ft one-eyed cow with a quiff. Duck under the cow and ring his bell to let him know you're coming. It's only polite!

Spritz Hugo, Spritz Aperol and one helluva view

They even have real life mountain cows

And mountain poultry

Next we're going to my other favourite bar in the Dolomites. It's halfway down the James Bond run (seen in For Your Eyes Only) so you're obligated to feel like James Bond as you shoop down to it. When you get there, forget all about your martini shaken not stirred. Get a hot chocolate with extra cream and chocolate sprinkles. It's what James Bond would've done. Honest. 

High altitude selfie

Terzo bar: Here you want an espresso, a pre-packed hipflask of brandy/baileys/whiskey and a retro ski do

Jake & Sophie

Me with the little gnomie

Another incredible view

Quarto bar: Now you already know about this hidden little gem, you savvy thing.

Delyth found a friend

It was retro ski day. Apparently.

As a result of the altitude-alcohol combination, things started to get a bit silly.

Now your tootsies are warm and you're feeling all brave and gnarley, you've just about got time to play in the park before we head to our next bar.

(before I had the most least graceful of falls)

And there's always time for a bit of Dolomiti Appreciation between fine drinking establishments

Couldn't have put it better myself

His & hers shiny puffas with matching velour. Che donna, che uomo!

Quarto bar: Prosecco Bar

This could (also) possibly be my favourite bar in the Dolomites. The prosecco is bottled in-house and de-corked with pliers. Did I mention the prosecco is sublime? If you look closely, you'll see a certain Parisienne looking chic even when she's upside down and stuck inside a wine glass!

L'ultimo bar: Sassbece (okay you got me, they're all my favourite bars!)
This was the final bar for a few reasons. In part because we introduced Sophie to Grappa Williams and things always tend to go downhill from there. But mainly because it was 6pm and so the Carabinieri kindly insisted on escorting us down the mountain.

Yewwwwwwwwwww

Then monday came along and said it was time to go home to flatland, where there are no cow bars, no mountain poultry and retro one-piece's are less acceptable as daywear. An extra special grazie mille to the lovely Elisa who singlehandedly denounces the claim that women can't drive, and all members of the Dolomiti Appreciation Society for the food and company (but mostly the food.)

Ci vediamo presto!

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